This hat is going to be part of a set with some booties for an as yet unborn baby with unknown gender – so it’s white (and sparkly) because that probably would be fine for either a boy or a girl. I used DK yarn and a 5mm hook which makes the hat quite light and airy.

SIZE

I have literally no idea how big a baby is so I used this wonderful website of baby sizes to make it (hopefully!) the right size. If you get the same gauge as me and follow the instructions exactly then the finished hat should measure ~38cm (15″) in circumference and 15cm (6″) long (before being turned up) which the website says is the size for a baby 3 – 6 months old. I decided to go for one size up from newborn as it’s better to be slightly too big as the baby can always grow into it.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• I used DK yarn and a 5mm hook to give a light and airy feel to the hat. It has a gauge of ~3.5 stitches and 3.5 rows per 2.5cm (1 inch) when worked in half treble (american = half double) crochet in back loops only. You can use any yarn and hook with any gauge if you have a look at this website of baby sizes and adjust the pattern for your particular needs.
• yarn needle for sewing on the ears
• As always I’ll be using English crochet terms so have a look at my conversion chart if you’d prefer American terms. However, the whole hat is completed in a single stitch: half treble crochet (htr) which in american terms is just half double crochet (hdc). Crochet into the back loop only of all stitches unless the instructions say otherwise and continue working in a spiral, using a stitch marker to keep track of rounds.

HAT

Round 1. Create a magic ring containing 6dc (sc in American terms). slst closed.

Work in back loops only of all stitches from now on.

Round 2. 2htr into each stitch (12 stitches total)

Round 3. *2htr into first stitch, 1htr in next stitch. *repeat 6 times (18 stitches total)

Round 4. *2htr into first stitch, 1htr in each of next 2 stitches. *repeat 6 times (24 stitches total)

Round 5. *2htr into first stitch, 1htr in each of next 3 stitches. *repeat 6 times (30 stitches total)

Round 6. *2htr into first stitch, 1htr in each of next 4 stitches. *repeat 6 times (36 stitches total)

Round 7. *2htr into first stitch, 1htr in each of next 5 stitches. *repeat 6 times (42 stitches total)

Round 8-22. 1htr in each stitch. (42 stitches total)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

EARS (MAKE 2)

Round 1. Create a magic ring containing 6dc. slst closed.

Work in back loops only of all stitches from now on.

Round 2. *2htr into first stitch, 1htr in next stitch. *repeat 3 times (9 stitches total)

Round 3. 1htr in each stitch.

Round 4. *2htr into first stitch, 1htr in each of next 2 stitch. *repeat 3 times (12 stitches total)

Round 5. 1htr in each stitch.

Round 6. *2htr into first stitch, 1htr in next stitch. *repeat 6 times (18 stitches total)

Round 7-15. 1htr in each stitch. (18 stitches total)

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

FINISHING

Flatten an ear and fold in half at the base as shown in the photo below. With the yarn needle and the tail of yarn sew through all layers a few times to secure the ear in this position.

Place the ear on one side of the hat at approximately round 4 and sew on. Weave in the loose end.

Repeat with the second ear on the opposite side of the hat. Turn up approximately 2.5cm (1″) and you’re done. Enjoy the cuteness!

I was going to write up the pattern for this hat for all you lovely people but it turns out that I have a very small head so I don’t think it would fit anyone else!

When figuring out how to make it though I came across this bloom beret pattern by Brittney Waterhouse, which, although constructed differently, produces a very similar slouchy style hat. So have a go at that if you like the style, I made it and it turned out great (with some adjustments to account for the small head!)

and while we’re on the subject of head-gear I don’t know if anyone remembers my attempt at customising my bike helmet a while ago? Well it’s been through a few incarnations since then and I really like the patchwork quality of it now – just repainting and redrawing over different sections as the mood takes me (and the paint is water based so fades and smudges in the rain then I just go over bits again):

Inspired by these lacy wrist-warmers from The Little Treasures blog I made these 80s style goth lacy black fingerless gloves. The original ones are made from a pair of socks and mine are made from some tights (I think I managed to buy a children’s sized pair by mistake! glad I found a use for them) and the only thing I did differently was pinching and sewing them together before adding the lace to create a separate thumb hole so they are more gloves than wrist-warmers - without that thumb piece I’d keep losing them up my sleeve :)

I originally saw the wrist-warmers on Pinterest – I just discovered it and I love that place. I’ve created a board called cult of crochet just for all the projects on this blog so do follow it if you want an easier way of finding projects on this site (the navigation around this blog is pretty poor I think – older projects disappear from view and unless you know about them already and can search for them then you’ll never see them.)

This snowflake measures approximately 30cm (12″) across, from point to point. It’s made using King Cole Haze glitter and it doesn’t show up great in the photos but is lovely and fuzzy yet shimmery – just like real snowflakes – but this one will keep you warm when out in the cold :)

You can join them together as you go to create a scarf and I’ve also experimented in joining more together to make a big square (with mixed results)…

The yarn weight is ~dk and recommends a 4mm hook. I used a 7mm hook and so I’d suggest using a hook several sizes larger than recommended by the yarn you’re using and keep the work fairly loose at all times. As always crochet terms are English so have a look at the conversion chart for the American equivalents.

Round 1. Chain 5 and join to the first stitch with a sl st to create a ring.

Round 2. Chain 6, *1tr into the ring, chain 3*

* repeat 11 times, sl st to the 3rd chain of the starting 6. You should have 12 ‘petals’ as shown in the photo below.

Round 3. *[dc, ch7, dc] into the next ch3 space, [dc, dc] into the next ch3 space.*

*Repeat 6 times then sl st into the first dc. Your work should now look like the photo below.

Round 4. *[2dc, 2tr, 4dtr, 2tr, 2dc] into ch7 space, dc, dc into the double crochet stitches from the previous round.*

*repeat 6 times.

Round 5. sl st next 4 stitches (the first 2dc and 2tr from the previous round), *ch12, dc into 5th stitch around (ie skip the 4 double trebles from round 4 and dc into the next treble), ch4, dc into 9th stitch around (ie dc into the second treble of the next ‘petal’)*

*repeat 6 times. Your work should now look like the photo below.

Round 6. to create a picot3: chain 3 then slst into the first chain. To create a picot5: chain 5 then slst into the first chain.

*[dc, dc, dc, picot3, dc, dc, dc, tr, tr, picot5, tr, tr, dc, dc, dc, picot3, dc, dc, dc] all in the next ch12 space. [dc, dc, dc, picot3, dc, dc, dc] all in the next ch4 space.*

*repeat 6 times. sl st to the 1st dc of the round, fasten off. The first snowflake is created.

Joining. Complete the first 5 rounds of the next snowflake the same as above. On the 6th round you will join to the first snowflake in 3 places: on the second to last ch4 space, instead of creating the picot3 in the normal way you should [dc, dc, dc, chain 1, dc to a picot5 of the first snowflake, chain 1, slst to the 1st chain, dc, dc, dc]. Then on the next ch12 space you should attach the 3rd chain of the picot5 to the next picot3 of the first snowflake. Then for the final ch4 space attach to the next picot5 of the first snowflake in the same way. That’s a lot of words! and I promise it’s not as complicated as all that sounds – look at the photo below and see how the second snowflake is rotated slightly and joined at 3 points. All you need to remember is that a picot5 is always joined to a picot3 and vice versa – you should never join 3 to 3 or 5 to 5. and each snowflake connects to the next at three consecutive points.

To join a third snowflake you should rotate it so it is the same orientation as the first snowflake and attach at the last ch12 space, ch4 space, ch12 space. see the photo below. Each snowflake will alternate its rotation. when it’s long enough for a scarf/shawl just pin and block or leave it a bit fuzzy and enjoy. I’d say you would need anywhere from 5 snowflakes to 9 snowflakes to be long enough for a scarf depending on how big they are.

I also had a go at increasing the width to make more of a square piece and it can be done – as seen in the photo below – but because of the size of the snowflakes it does leave quite a large square gap (~13cm or 5″) which I think is too big. Since it’s roughly a square and there are 4 evenly spaced picots pointing inwards then another small piece could be created to go in that gap, attached at those picots. I haven’t got around to actually thinking about that yet though….

OK so he looks a bit like a Clanger dressed as a reindeer because I just made him up as I went along but he was quick to make and (I think) very cute. I do have some ideas of improvements if I made him again but I’ll just tell you those as I go along because now he’s finished I don’t have the heart to replace him (very sad I know!)

You’ll need:

• Small amounts of light and dark brown yarn and a suitable sized hook to match the yarn (I used DK weight yarn and 4mm hook.)
• A scrap of red yarn or some red embroidery thread for his nose.
• 2 black seed beads and black thread for eyes (or just black thread if you have no beads)
• Something to weight the base – he won’t stand up otherwise. I used three 5p pieces but anything small and heavy will work
• A small amount of stuffing
• A yarn needle
• A stitch marker to keep track of rounds

We will be working in a continuous spiral so use a stitch marker to keep track of the start of the rounds. Crochet into the back loop only of all stitches and the terms I use are English – look at the conversion chart for the American equivalents.

The first change I would make is that I’d complete the first 5 rounds in dark brown yarn (to create the hooves (hoofs?)) and then change to the light brown and continue as the photos show.

BODY

Round 1. In dark brown yarn create a magic ring with 6dc and slip stitch closed

Round 2. 2dc in each stitch (12 stitches total)

Round 3-7. 1dc in each stitch (12 stitches) Change colour to light brown yarn after round 5.

Round 8. (2dc, dc, dc, dc) x 3 (15 stitches)

Round 9. 1 dc in each stitch (15 stitches)

Round 10. 2dc, htr, tr, tr, tr, 2tr, tr, htr, dc, dc, 2slst, slst last 4 stitches (18 Stitches)

Round 11. 2slst, dc, dc, htr, htr, tr, 2tr, tr next 5 stitches, 2htr, dc, dc, slst, slst, slst (21 stitches)

Round 12. slst first 5 stitches, dc, htr, tr next 7 stitches, htr, dc, slst last 5 stitches (21 stitches)

Round 13&14. 1dc in each stitch (21 stitches)

Insert weight into bottom of feet

Round 15. (miss one stitch, dc next 6 stitches) x 3 (18 stitches)

Round 16. (miss one stitch, dc next 5 stitches) x 3 (15 stitches)

Stuff

Round 17. (miss one stitch, dc next 4 stitches) x 3 (12 stitches)

Round 18. 1dc in each stitch (12 stitches)

Round 19. (miss one stitch, dc next 3 stitches) x 3 (9 stitches)

Add a little more stuffing if needed

Round 20. (miss one stitch, dc next 2 stitches) x 3 (6 stitches)

Round 21. miss one stitch, dc, miss one stitch, dc, miss one stitch, slst.

Fasten off and weave in ends

TAIL

Insert your crochet hook around a tr on the back of the body from round 11 and pull through a short length of light brown yarn. Tie the 2 ends in a knot a few times until the tail is as long as you want it then trim then ends.

ANTLERS

Repeat the process for tail on either side of the head in dark brown yarn to create the antlers. Leave a length of yarn when you trim them to create branches.

Here is where I would make another change if I did this again: I would make two antlers on each side of the head then knot these together to create a thicker base that tapers and creates more branches at the end.

FACE

Sew a scrap of red yarn (or embroidery thread) around and around the tip to create the nose. the more times you sew around the bigger you can make the nose.

sew a black seed bead to each side of the head for the eyes.

LEGS

I messed about trying different things with the legs and in the end sewed around with light brown yarn to define the legs then sewed dark brown yarn around the bottom for the hooves. If you followed the improved instructions then you will already have hooves so I would just sew once up the front, back and each side in light brown yarn to divide the base into 4 legs.

Here is my latest pattern. He is a(nother!) bunny – I do love crocheted bunny ears :) I’ve called him Mr Rabbit and he likes to dress up. He has three costumes so far; the first is SuperBunny – crime fighting daredevil to the stars. He has a mask to protect his identity and a rather dashing cape that goes ‘swish’ in the breeze. Of course he also has an alter ego outfit that is a simple collar and tie. No one suspects his superhero antics even though Mr Rabbit and SuperBunny have never been seen together…..

His second costume is a ghost – since Halloween he’s been addicted to cutting holes in sheets and scaring anyone he can find:

And with Christmas fast approaching Mr Rabbit is getting into the festive spirit by tying on a fake beard and handing out presents to all his family and friends.

I had the idea for dress-up bunny about 5 months ago and have been working on it on and off  since then. It is my latest pattern for sale to help me restock with wool when I go home over Christmas – there’s a serious lack of wool shops around here :)

The pattern for the bunny and all the costumes is available for £3 (that’s about $4.66 USD on 28/11/11) and you can either

click here to buy it directly from my website via paypal 

or you can buy it through Ravelry.

If you only want one of the outfits then you can buy them separately for £1.50 each ($2.33 USD on 28/11/11) . Each pattern contains instructions for making the bunny and that particular outfit.

Buy the SuperBunny pattern directly via paypal. or from Ravelry.

Buy the ghost bunny pattern directly via paypal. or from Ravelry.

Buy the Santa bunny pattern directly via paypal. or from Ravelry.

If you’re not keen on theatrical rabbits or just don’t want to pay for patterns then do keep checking back as i’ll have more free patterns for you soon.

I’m calling this my sith scarf because it turned me to the dark side - that’s right – it’s knitting….

I’ve said before that the few times I’ve tried knitting in the past it’s been a horrible disaster and I found the whole thing very awkward and slightly traumatic but when I saw this leaf lace scarf from the purl bee I fell in love and had to give it another try.

I went back to basics; loaded up you tube, starting looking at different techniques and ended up knitting left-handed (moving the stitches from the right to the left needle, holding the yarn in my right hand). But I still found purling a bit awkward and got my mind in a knot trying to think about slanting decreases and if they would need to be swapped.

After a few more frustrated attempts I settled on working the knit rows from the left needle onto the right with the yarn in my right hand but then instead of purling I knitted into the back loop of all stitches and worked from the right needle back onto the left. This is much more comfortable and I never have to swap the needles over – just move stitches from one needle to the other and back again with the right side always facing me. Those of you who knit – is this a valid method? or are you appalled by the idea? Every odd row of this pattern is just purl so it works well but I don’t know if it would be any good for any other projects.

Anyway I’m happy with my scarf so far, it’s not perfectly neat but not too shabby and soon I’ll have completed my first ever knitted project!

DIY circle scarf – the easiest sewing project in the world.

Take a big rectangle of stretchy fabric, fold in half, sew the ends together and you’re done. wrap it around your neck twice and you have a stylish and warm scarf in less than 20 minutes. I’ve been meaning to make one of these for a while but seeing this tutorial from come on Ilene made me actually get the sewing machine out and make it today. Have a look at that tutorial for proper instructions. Not that you need many – mostly just getting the right length of material so that it will nicely wrap around twice. She also gives tips on different ways to wear it – as a shawl, wrap, dress (!) etc. I apologise for the poor photos – these were the best of a few terrible attempts to balance the camera and use the self timer :)

I’ve only made 3 coasters and 1 placemat so far but that’s enough to let you know how it was done. They were made using the same stitch as the vintage phone case, they’re nice and thick and seem quite robust so far. As always I’m using English crochet terms so look at the conversion chart for the American equivalents.

I’ve used quite a thin recycled grey cotton doubled up so that it’s ~dk/worsted weight and a 4mm hook.

Placemat

row 1. Chain 50

row 2. chain 3, turn, tr in 3rd chain from hook, *skip one stitch, dc and then tr both into the next stitch*

* repeat to the end of the row and just 1dc in the last stitch of the row.

row 3. chain 2, turn, tr into the dc at the end of the last row (the 3rd chain/stitch from the hook), *skip one stitch, dc then tr both into the next stitch*

* repeat to the end of the row ending with 1 dc in last stitch of the row.

Repeat row 3 until the piece is as big as you would like the placemat – I completed 30 rows in total.

Do not fasten off but turn the work 90 degrees and continue in the direction you are going – dc all around the edge with 3dc in each corner. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Coaster

Follow the same instructions as for the placemat but to begin chain 14 and I completed 12 rows but you should add or subtract a few to make them square. Finish by dc-ing all around the edge as for the placemat.

My most recent crocheting project was this snowflake scarf. It was fairly quick to make and once it’s blocked it is lovely and lacy. If you want to give it a try then the pattern is by Elizabeth Myers and is available to download for free from Ravelry.